Saturday, July 14, 2012

Historic Embroidery Patterns: Plates 3-8

The following plates were sketched from an old strip of work done in deep indigo worsted wool, with a rather lighter wool, both in color and make, used in the fine buttonhole work and darning, of which there is much throughout the work. The design was a branching one, the flowers and leaves—most of which appear in the following plates—are hanging from stems about a quarter of an inch thick done in herring-bone stitch, with the exception of the violas (plate 5) which have a thicker stem of their own in herring-bone, stem stitch and loops. The thistles (plate 3, No. 1) reproduced the same size as in the work, were scattered about in groups of three, making a very pleasing contrast to the hanging roses (plate 6), whilst the irises reared their heads all along the bottom of the strip, but owing to the work having been cut, it was impossible to see how they joined their straight stalks to the branching ones above.

No. 1. Stem stitch contour: diaper work done in coral stitch, with a French knot filling in each alternate square. Four rows of buttonhole stitch at top of flower.
No. 2. Stem-stitch, coral stitch and darning.
No. 3. Buttonhole stitch, French knot and stem stitch.
No. 4. Stem stitch and buttonhole stitch.
No. 5. Coral stitch. (These tendrils occurred all over the work and were very effective.)
No. 6. Buttonhole stitch: center and stalk in stem stitch.
No. 7. Stem stitch and loops.

The iris shown here was worked as follows: The contours in stem stitch throughout. The center and two side petals have stem stitch veins, edged buttonhole stitch and were filled in with big knots. The smaller petals were partially filled in with buttonhole stitch and darning. The dark petal on left was done in Cretan stitch edged stem stitch.

No. 1. Contour in stem stitch, filled in lightly with buttonhole stitch, and darning and long-and-short stitch.
No. 2. Ditto, with the addition of herring-bone stitch on two upper petals.
No. 3. (Stalk) herring-bone stem stitch with loops between.

No. 1. Stem-stitch, buttonhole stitch and darning.
No. 2. Ditto.
No. 3. Stem stitch, buttonhole stitch, French knots and darning.
No. 4. Stem stitch, buttonhole stitch and darning.
All have herring-bone stitch stalks.

Sketched from a piece of work in blue crewels on white linen, belonged to the late Lady Maria Ponsonby.

Most of the stitchery shown here is similar to that on the preceding plates, but has the addition of the plait stitch edged with buttonhole stitch in the veins of the big leaf, and the close knots on the sheaf of the foxgloves, while the sheaf of the convolvulus has veins of stem stitch and small French knots. In all this piece of work there is to be noted a great deal of buttonholing and darning.

Plate 8 is in color and included as the second illustration in the article here.

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